Recently the Government spokesman on the TV stated that only 4 towns / cities in Morocco still had cases of the virus, and Rabat wasn’t one of them. Since then the police have stopped their regular patrols in the Medina, though all the exits have checkpoints, and one can only leave with permission.

As a result the family decided it was safe to have a party for Janette’s 7th birthday at her grandmother Fatima’s house, and I was invited as well.

Fatima is in pink in the corner, and the photo includes one son (in the gold hat), one daughter in law (in the pink hat) – they are Janette’s parents , 3 daughters, 3 sons in law and 5 grandchildren. Another daughter, Nadie, was present but always refuses to have her photo taken. Five of these people live in the house normally, and three others have been living with them since the lockdown started. The rest have all lived in Assia’s house at some stage, so the risks were low. But all strictly against the lockdown rules.

They are good at improvising. The table is actually the wooden base of a bed inverted over two small tables.

It is apparently normal in Morocco to celebrate children’s birthdays as a family affair, with the only children present being cousins (or very occasionally a close neighbour), so it was not much different to normal years.

It started with a large feast at about 2pm. followed by a couple of hours when the decorations were put up and the older people had a rest.

This seafood pastilla was large enough for at least 16 people as a main course

It was followed by another main course – a turkey and apricot tagine (accompanied by bread, of course) Then there was a  couple of hours when the decorations were put up and the older people had a rest.

After two of the men  returned from work, the ‘tea party’ commenced. Just several different juices, a chocolate mousse type birthday cake and biscuits. Accompanied by some dire birthday pop songs, mainly in French, played via the TV. There were no party games at all.

As you can see, I spell Janat’s name incorrectly as ‘Janette’, because that is how they pronounce it. Her aunts and uncles had clubbed together to buy her a tablet, but I don’t think she realised what it was. She was far more impressed by having her own charger for it.

We left for home at 8.45, so quite a long party.

Before lockdown I visited several interesting quirky museums that, so far, I have not told you about.

On TripAdvisor (which I am usually very sceptical about), I found ‘Poupées du Monde’ (Dolls of the World) was only a 2 minute walk from where I am staying. The first time I looked it was closed for a week for a holiday, but it was open one afternoon the following week when I called by on my way back from somewhere else.

The owner was an elderly cultivated Moroccan widower whose French wife had started to collect French dolls in regional costumes in the early 1960s and continued collecting dolls all her life. A few years ago they held a very successful temporary exhibition in Rabat. After she died her husband decided to buy and restore an old house in the Medina and open a permanent museum. It only opened early summer 2019, and not many people know it exists as yet. Assia only lives a couple of minutes away and had never heard of it!

There are over 2500 dolls in the collection, not children’s toys, and they are all dressed in cloth. The museum is arranged over 4 rooms. The two rooms downstairs are arranged by country, whilst upstairs they are on themes, such as music, work, women and children.

Part of the display of French regional dolls – the largest individual collection

Dolls from Thailand 

One of their sons travels the world in his work (I suspect he may be in the Diplomatic Service), and the collection continues to grow.

Musicians – just a small part of the collection on this theme

From the visitors book, I was the only visitor that day. It being about 4 pm when I had finished looking around, the owner invited me to tea and biscuits and a chat. I think he was very glad to have someone different to talk to.

I hope he is able to reopen sometime soon, as the collection is very interesting and worthy of being better known.

The current lockdown rules expire on 10 June, so we are all hoping that a relaxation will be announced. Most days there are no deaths now, and usually the number of new cases is in the 20s, with an occasional day a little higher. The family are very keen to go for their annual visit to the family organic farm on the Mediterranean coast near Tetouan, which is run by two of Assia’s brothers. If it is allowed, I will be taken along as well, as I am now ‘part of the family’.

Keep safe